Runway highlights from the SS17 Barragán runway show at MADE New York.
The word ‘unisex’ feels even too moderate an expression to apply to the newest and most subversive womenswear collections this season, with youth culture now on the verge of being epicene – the mere concept of gender norms are now barely pandered to, let alone challenged or disrupted. It’s no longer the point. Designer Victor Barragan knows that the new wave of fashion isn’t sartorially concerned with that as much as in recent seasons: we’re beyond it. He knows we just all want to look sexy and cool, regardless of or in spite of what makes any of us physically different to one another. The use of sex shop materials and sleazy details such as crotch zippers and 70s disco curtains were combined with a scenic reference to the Garden of Eden and Frida Kahlo-inspired makeup (possibly a nod to the designer’s Mexican heritage), re-creating that familiar feeling of the kind of zoomed-out existential vulnerability that the contemplation of science or history can muster. This was just the start of the next wave of the new wave – the first of surely a lot more exciting things to come this week.